Romance in Rutland?

Published in The Post-Star (G1)
2/7/06

A romantic weekend in ... Rutland?

Don't laugh.

Sure, it's no Big Apple, but this part of central Vermont has a few choice fruits to offer visitors.

For one thing, it's a lot closer than Montreal or Manhattan. Downtown Rutland is just more than an hour's drive from Glens Falls, and the trip is sweetened by cheaper gas prices across the state border. Walk around the historic downtown, then head east a few miles more to explore the charming towns of Mendon and Killington.

For another, it's not home. Routine can snuff out romance after a while, and a weekend getaway might be just what you need to get the fire started again. (And if it turns out that you and your partner are poor traveling companions ... well, at least you won't have far to hitchhike back.)

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
Skiing at Killington is the most obvious winter tourist attraction in the area, but it's certainly not the only way to play in the snow.

* Get taken for a ride -- What could be more romantic than feeling the winter wind kiss your frostbitten nose as you take in a front-row view of a horse's behind? Several hotels in the region offer horse-drawn sleigh rides for about $25 a person, including The Mountain Top Inn, (802) 483-6089, Cortina Inn, (802) 773-3333, and Hawk Inn and Mountain Resort, (802) 672-3811.

* Rely on animal instinct -- See above, but substitute "hyper dogs" for "horse." Green Mountain Dog Sled Adventures will take you and your sweetheart on the ride of your life on the trails at Killington Resort. One sled fits two adults (no more than 320 pounds total), and costs $105 if you reserve through the resort, (800) 621-6867. One-hour tours depart from 5:30-8:30 p.m. Thursday through Sunday evenings, and every day from Feb. 19-25. At the Mountain Top Inn, half-hour dog sled tours are $65 per person.

* Go weak in the knees -- Or at least, the ankles. Wobbling around on ice skates makes a great excuse to reach for a hand to hold. The weather's been weird this winter, but if it ever cools down long enough for the pond at the Cortina Inn to freeze, you can skate for just $5 a person (free to hotel guests) on weekends and holidays between 4 and 9 p.m. Rentals are $5 extra. You'll find the inn along Route 4, about 6 miles east of Rutland on the outskirts of Killington.
The Mountain Top Inn and the Grist Mill, (802) 422-6680, in Killington also have outdoor rinks (no skate rentals).
As a backup plan, the Rutland Field House often opens its indoor rink for public skating -- call (802) 773-8460 for current hours.

INDOOR ACTIVITIES
If you hate the outdoors, well, maybe you shouldn't be vacationing in Vermont. But here are a few suggestions to warm you up to the idea:

* Refuse to get out of bed -- Enjoy a lazy morning, then head over to Sugar and Spice for its all-day breakfast menu. This sugarhouse-cum-restaurant gets pretty steamy during syrup-making season, which could be anytime now. The pumpkin pancakes, served with homemade maple syrup, will make you fall in love with carbs all over again. On Route 4 in Mendon, just east of Rutland.

* Take a coffee break -- Wasn't that brunch exhausting? Maybe you should catch your breath before embarking on that search for the perfect "I LOVErmont" T-shirt.
The Coffee Exchange, at the intersection of Center Street and Merchants Row in downtown Rutland, is a former bank building converted to a cozy cafe. The old vault makes a nice nook for couples to relax and look deep into each others' lattes.
Just a few doors down on Center Street, the Back Home Again Cafe offers an invitingly dim atmosphere with natural wood furniture and a menu full of organic goodies. Try a cup of yerba mate -- we're not sure what they mean by "herbal stimulant," but it can't hurt -- and save the snuggling for later, since this place is run by a conservative religious community.

* Get high together -- Love involves trust, right? Prove it. Couples can hold the belay rope for each other at a 8,000-square-foot indoor climbing gym at Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center, one of the largest in New England. $15 gets you a day pass and shoe rentals. First-time visitors must start out with a $10 safety lesson. Located on Route 4 on the east edge of Rutland. Check out www.vermontclimbing.com or call (802) 773-3343. Also the headquarters for Vermont Adventure ice climbing tours.

* Rub it in -- After a tough day of climbing, your muscles could use some TLC. At Peace of Mind Emporium on Route 4 (3 miles east of Route 7 in Rutland), you can take a lesson in "couples massage," sip a free cup of herbal tea in the meditation room, or just buy some scented oils and lotions to take back to your room.

WHERE TO STAY
There are too many places in this region to list, but here are a few that look promising:

* Chocolate Truffle B&B (www.chocolatetruffle.info) has the perfect name for a Valentine's getaway destination, doesn't it? This Victorian mansion in downtown Rutland (routes 7 and 4B) is offering a February "sweetheart's package" for $199 per couple that includes dinner, dessert, a room for one night, and a full breakfast in the morning. (802) 747-5049.

* Journey's End B&B, 17 Journey's End Road, Mendon (www.journeysendvt.com) is an old English manor with four guest rooms ($130-175) and two luxury suites ($225-275). Prices include snacks and a fireside breakfast in the morning. (802) 775-0406.

* Harvest Moon B&B, 1659 N. Grove St., Rutland (www.harvestmoonvt.com), offers two rooms in a historic farmhouse with mountain views for $90-105 a night, including breakfast. (802) 773-0889.

* Cortina Inn, 103 Route 4, Killington (www.cortinainn.com). This place feels too cozy and personal to be a "resort hotel," but the prices ($209 per night) will remind you. During Presidents' Week (Feb. 20-25), the rate for a double drops to $179, including breakfast and a $10 voucher for the in-house restaurant and bar. The amenities make it worth it -- you could spend all day enjoying the indoor pool, hot tub, sauna and fitness center with massage therapists. The pricier rooms have jacuzzis and fireplaces.
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