Angels drink scotch?

Published in The Post-Star (G1)
10/12/06

Anyone who steps inside the classy, wood-paneled warmth of 9 Maple Avenue in Saratoga Springs can see that the owner has an obsession.

On the backlit shelves behind the bar, more than 150 varieties of single-malt scotch, 40 bourbons, and 28 Irish whiskies wink and gleam at patrons, waiting for someone to ask them out.

"Yeah, I've got a problem collecting whiskies," admitted Mike Sirianni, owner and manager of the 16-year-old establishment. He thinks he might have the largest scotch collection of any bar in the state, outside New York City.

"I've pretty much bought everything that New York state has to offer," he said. "It's a lot of fun to see people out enjoying it."

He hosts a two-hour tasting session at the bar on the first Wednesday of each month, dubbed "The Angels' Share Society" after the roughly 2 percent of alcohol that evaporates from a barrel of wine or liquor during each year of the aging process.

For $25 each, patrons are treated to three shots -- a scotch, a bourbon and an Irish whiskey -- and a unique cocktail, usually set to the soundtrack of a hand-picked jazz recording.

Sirianni said he doesn't make much profit at that price, but it doesn't matter. He sees himself as an educator, maybe even an evangelist, when it comes to good whiskey.

"Some poor guy can get stuck drinking Dewar's and water for the next 10 years, when the bottle next to it on the shelf could be his best friend if he tried it," he said. "I'm giving him a chance to try it."

Twice a year, the event also includes a cigar tasting courtesy of Smokin' Sam's Cigar Shop, as it did this month. (The state's ban on smoking in public places allows an exception for any two days per calendar year.)

"Cigar nights are usually our biggest turnout," Sirianni said, working up a sweat as he poured about 50 shots in rapid succession.

Only two female faces could be spotted in the crowd that night, although regulars at the event said there have been a lot more in the past.

"I've definitely seen a fair amount of women at these," said Jay Teta, trying to reassure the female reporter that she was not out of place.

"But I'd say it's 20 percent or less," added his friend, Alan McWilliams. Next to him, Ed Hanlon nodded in agreement as he sipped the first of the night's heavenly offerings, a Clontarf classic blend Irish whiskey.

"Mmm," he said.

The three men have been Angels -- so to speak -- for most of the four years the group has existed.

In the daylight, Teta is an IT engineer, McWilliams sells pharmaceuticals and Hanlon is a middle-school teacher. But they look much more mysterious and macho in the murky light of 9 Maple Avenue, with a cigar in one hand and shot of whiskey in the other.

But it's not about image, the Angels explain. It's about taste.

"Some people like the activity itself, like, 'Hey, I'm drinking a scotch. Hey, I'm eating a lobster. Hey, I'm smoking a cigar,'" said Jim Fauci, who selected the cigars for that night's tasting. "But after a while, you get over the sort of stature of it, and get down to the taste."

Herm Greenfield of Wilton discovered the Angels' Share Society through a girlfriend a few years ago. He's since lost the girlfriend, but kept his passion for scotch.

"This was a real education. I found out why I really like scotch, and as you start learning more, you hone your taste," he said.

The taste is tricky to put into words, though.

"Scotch is a hard drink. It's not sweet, not friendly," Greenfield said, after struggling to describe it for a minute or two.

He looked down at his glass and grinned.

"Until you get into it. Then," he said, giving the air a big bear hug, "it's your best friend."

~~~~
IF YOU GO
The Angels' Share Society meets from 7 to 9 p.m. the first Wednesday of each month at 9 Maple Avenue bar in Saratoga Springs. $25 admission, ages 22 and older. For more information, log on to www.9mapleavenue.com or call 583-2582.
~~~~
Whiskey Wisdom
-- Whiskey comes in many varieties, depending on its country of origin, the specific ingredients and type of still used, and the aging process. Bourbon and scotch are types of whiskey.

-- The term whiskey comes from a Gaelic word meaning "water of life."

-- Bourbon, an American whiskey which originated in Bourbon County, Ky., must contain at least 51 percent corn.

-- The proper spelling for whiskey made in Scotland is "whisky." It is traditionally made with malted barley heated over a peat fire.

-- Whiskey is born clear, and acquires color from the cask as it ages.