Tapping into the tapas trend

Published on 1/31/2007
THE POST-STAR

The most essential element of the tapas dining experience isn't food, it's pronunciation -- there's a big difference between indulging in small portions of several dishes and ogling a shirtless waitress.

David Britton, executive chef of Springwater Bistro in Saratoga Springs, learned this the hard way when he changed his upscale restaurant's answering machine message to advertise every Monday as "tapas night."

"If you don't pronounce the 'pa' clearly, it sounds like topless," he said. "I remember an older woman of obvious sophistication calling, and her message was, 'Oh, no, that's not what I called for,' then...click. We don't leave it on the machine anymore."

He doesn't need to advertise, anyway. On Monday nights -- traditionally the slowest day in a restaurant's week -- his bistro is bustling, both the dining room and bar brimming with customers.

They're all there to eat tapas, which means sharing a lot of little dishes instead of ordering larger individual entrees. The term comes from a Spanish word meaning "cover," and the centuries-old tradition may have started as an attempt to keep flies out of wine and sherry by placing slices of bread, cheese or ham on top of the glass. These unintentional bar snacks caught on and became more elaborate with time.

These days, tapas can be almost anything. A bowl of mixed nuts or olives qualifies, as does something snazzier like a chunk of salmon in a balsamic glaze reduction. Any meal of sampling-sized portions could be called tapas, and the food doesn't even have to be Spanish -- the tapas menu at Springwater Bistro has Asian, Italian, French and American influences, for example.

Springwater Bistro started its Monday-night tapas tradition about five years ago, on a night when, because of a snowstorm, only a handful of customers were in the restaurant, Britton said.

"We said, instead of a long, drawn-out meal, why don't we cook for you the way we eat?" he said, referring to the way that chefs sample many dishes together before setting a menu. The customers loved it, and it allowed the chefs to use up all the ingredients left in the kitchen at the end of each week (the bistro is closed on Tuesdays).

"The nice thing about tapas is that people can be adventurous with less risk," Britton explained. "And it's become a phenomenon ... look around, it's wall-to-wall people."

Gaffney's Restaurant in Saratoga Springs introduced a Thursday-night tapas menu last year. The menu includes about 20 tapas items priced from three to six dollars, and most customers order three to four items each, said restaurant owner John Baker.

"We just wanted to do something different, keep things fresh," he said. "It's been very popular."

Deena Lavigne, a longtime waitress at Gaffney's, said she still gets asked "What's tapas?" by a lot of customers, but she said the trend is catching on.

"It's about being able to sit and chat and not devour your food all at once," she said.

The tapas experience is about socializing as much as eating, Britton said. "It creates camaraderie, all the sharing and passing," he said.

IF YOU GO
Springwater Bistro, 139 Union Ave. in Saratoga Springs, devotes every Monday night to tapas. Chef David Britton's innovative menu, which changes weekly, adds a gourmet touch to familiar foods -- ever tried pizza with barbecue calamari, sesame, and Gruyere cheese? How about goat cheese fritters with lemon fondue? Want some curry aioli with those onion rings? Menu online at www.springwaterbistro.com or call 584-6440.

Gaffney's Restaurant, 16 Caroline St. in Saratoga Springs, includes a tapas menu with its regular dinner menu on Thursday nights. Go to www.gaffneysrestaurant.com or call 587-7359.

The Wine Bar, at 417 Broadway in Saratoga Springs, offers a few light, tapas-style dishes like seared scallops, "pizzetta," and exotic cheese plates. The prices aren't as miniscule as the portions, but the classy atmosphere and generous glasses of good wine make up for it. Menu online at www.thewinebarofsaratoga.com or call 584-8777.

Vin Santo Tapas & Wine Bar, just off Northway Exit 6 in the Latham Farms shopping center, this restaurant opened to rave reviews last summer. According to the online menu, chef Chris Sisinni (formerly of Justin's restaurant on Lark Street) can whip up anything from a simmered octopus salad to a mound of house-cut french fries. Check it out at www.vinsantowinebar.com or call 786-TAPA.

Noche Lounge, 895 Broadway in north Albany's warehouse district, is another tapas bar worth the drive. The swanky, low-lit ambience seems just right for sipping a glass of wine and nibbling on menu items like a Manchego and goat cheese quesadilla. An odd but tasty touch: Strips of bacon served in a wine glass are complimentary. More info at www.nochealbany.com or 434-4540.