Published in The Post-Star (D1)
11/22/06
Thanksgiving and traditional turkey have a long history together, but the holiday has been flirting with some younger dishes lately. Here's a peek at a few things that the Pilgrims certainly never tried:
1) Turducken
Hannaford Supermarkets just introduced something called "turducken" to its holiday meat selections, with a press release calling it "a unique alternative" and "new twist" on tradition.
As spokeswoman Caren Epstein explained, turducken is a combination of deboned turkey, duck and chicken breasts layered with stuffing, based on a Louisiana specialty. Hannaford is offering either a Louisiana-style version stuffed with cornbread and jambalaya or the more familiar flavor of cranberry-apple stuffing.
"Turducken will make for an extraordinary meal, as well as for some extraordinary conversation, this holiday season," Epstein said.
Don't cry, turkey. Those other birds are merely accessories to your lovely flavor -- they're not calling it Duchickey or Chitucken, are they? That's got to mean something.
2)Tofurky
Don Halliday walked into Pure 'n Simple Natural Foods Store in Glens Falls on Monday afternoon with a singular mission. Squinting at a few words on a sheet of paper in his hand, he spoke to the store's owner, Paul Savard.
"I'm looking for a ... toe-fur-key?" he said, pronouncing it cautiously.
They had one left, Savard said, reaching for a box from the cooler. It was a Tofurky Feast, including a roast, gravy, stuffing, dumplings and "wishstix" -- all made without meat, dairy or eggs.
Halliday explained that his 22-year-old daughter, Erin, is a vegetarian who had already hunted unsuccessfully for tofurkey in other stores.
Tofurky Roast is made from a blend of wheat protein, tofu and beans, seasoned with soy sauce and other spices to give it a flavor like meat. It has less fat, cholesterol and calories than turkey, and some people believe it tastes just as good.
"Seasonings mean everything," Savard explained. "It's a little bit different texture, but if you prepare it with the traditional gravies and sauces or herbs, it's got a very pleasant flavor. You'd never know it was tofu."
Halliday was pleased to find what his daughter wanted, but said he didn't plan to steal any bites from her plate on Thursday.
"I'll stick with the real thing," he said.
3) Who needs turkey?
For vegetarians and others who simply dislike turkey, Putnam Market in Saratoga Springs offers a couple of alternative main courses. Their prepared lasagna -- featuring butternut squash and mushrooms in bechamel sauce -- is always popular, said owner Catharine Hamilton. Customers can pre-order a pan (it's too late now) or buy it by the piece (still some left!) for $5 a serving. Their recipe, borrowed from Epicurious.com, is listed below.
Salmon is another tasty option, and many vegetarians make an exception for fish. Hamilton recommended coating salmon in herbs and cream cheese and baking it in a puff pastry, like beef Wellington. That dish is not on the regular menu at Putnam Market, but can be special-ordered.
"We have one customer that's ordered it every year for as long as I can remember," she said.
"And I know a few people who are going to be eating roast beef or chicken."
But the majority of customers, she said, are faithful to traditional turkey with sides like cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes and stuffing.
"Thanksgiving's one of those holidays where certain people will never deviate from the menu," Hamilton said. "It doesn't get too wacky."
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Butternut Squash & Mushroom Lasagna
Serves 8
1/4 c. unsalted butter
2 1/2 c. onions, chopped
1/2 lb (3 c.) baby bella/crimini mushrooms, sliced
2 lbs (5 1/2 c.) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, sliced about 1/4-inch thick
1 can (14 oz) vegetable broth
4 Tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped
4 Tbsp. fresh sage, sliced
3 containers (15 oz. each) fresh ricotta cheese
4 c. grated mozzarella cheese
2 c. grated Parmesan cheese
4 large eggs
Olive oil
1 package (9 oz) no-boil lasagna noodles
Melt butter in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions, sautee about 8 minutes until soft. Increase heat to high, add mushrooms and sautee about 3 minutes until tender, stirring constantly. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside mixture in a bowl.
Add squash, broth, 3 Tbsp each of thyme and sage to skillet. Cover and simmer over medium heat until squash is tender (6 minutes). Uncover, cook until squash is soft but retains shape (5 minutes). Season with salt and pepper.
Mix ricotta, 2 cups mozzarella, 1-1/2 cup Parmesan and remaining thyme and sage in large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Mix in eggs.
Brush 13x9x2 inch baking dish (glass or ceramic) with olive oil and spread 1 cup cheese mixture in bottom. Arrange 3 noodles on top. Add another layer of cheese mixture (about 1 3/4 cups), then a layer of squash mixture (1-1/3 cups). Sprinkle with mushrooms (1/2 cup) and mozzarella (1 cup).
Arrange 3 more noodles on top, then a layer of cheese mixture (1-3/4 cups), half of remaining squash mixture, mushrooms (1/2 cup), and remaining mozzarella. Repeat with 3 noodles, cheese (1 3/4 cups), remaining squash and remaining mushrooms. Top with three noodles. Spread remaining cheese mixture on top and sprinkle with rest of Parmesan.
This can be assembled one day ahead and refrigerated. To cook, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cover pan with oiled foil and bake for 35 minutes, then uncover and bake about 25 minutes longer until heated through. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.
Source: www.epicurious.com, also available pre-made from Putnam Market for $5 a portion.
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